Breguet has been the leader of the escapement of the clock’s core component since its birth, and this advantage began with the Breguet overcoil designed by the master of Breguet in 1795. It seems that it has never changed to this day. As silicon escapements and magnetic escapements have gradually become popular, we currently divide timepiece escapements into two phases, traditional escapements and innovative escapements. In the field of traditional escapements, Breguet is worthy of it. As the king of kings, the tourbillon invented in 1801 is still the object of many collectors chasing, and in the field of innovation escapement, Breguet is definitely a pioneer in the industry, and all this needs to be said from 2006 Up.
Friends who are slightly familiar with escapement should understand that the balance spring is the most important part in the watch movement. Whether the oscillation frequency is stable determines the accuracy of the watch’s travel time, and it is also the decisive factor to improve the accuracy of the timing device. The shape of the hairspring is a super-fine coil spring, and the material is usually metal. The current metal hairspring of Breguet is produced and sold by Nivarox-FAR of the Swatch Group, all of which are made of alloy material. Hardness and in this way counteracts the increase in the inertia of the hairspring caused by thermal expansion. Although it is an alloy, it is a metal after all, so it is unavoidably very susceptible to the effects of vibration, magnetic fields, and even gravity, which can cause distortion.
At this time, the hairspring and escapement parts made of silicon show many advantages. First, silicon is not a metal and is completely unaffected by magnetic fields. Practice tests have proven that when a silicon material is exposed to twice the magnetic field of the NIHS standard, its performance 15 times higher than standard materials. Secondly, in the production process, because the production of silicon hairsprings is directly completed by etching silicon wafers, instead of spiral winding like metal hairsprings, silicon hairsprings can not only be made into various shapes, but the gap between the hairsprings can also be It is designed according to the specific function of the hairspring, so that it can accurately match various precision-designed models. The third silicon hairspring is lighter than metal hairspring, so it is less likely to be distorted by gravity (similar to the effect of a tourbillon). It also has good corrosion resistance and friction resistance; finally, all silicon components can be significantly enhanced in torsion resistance and shock resistance after special processing.
In 2006, Breguet launched the first watch with a silicon balance spring and escapement. This watch is the 5197 of the Classique. The 5197 is equipped with a 591A movement with a double barrel. The movement was designed and manufactured at the Breguet watch factory in Vallée de Joux (Jura Valley). For the first time, Breguet used a movement with a full set of silicon escapements, including a silicon escape wheel, an escapement The latest components include forks and silicon hairsprings. Among them, the new silicon hairspring has a central curve, variable tooth and segment sections, and an integrated hairspring post. Because the watchmaker overcomes the challenge of specifying the temperature coefficient when designing the silicon balance spring, the watch can maintain a stable rate at any temperature, achieving the timing effect that only the Breguet double-layer spring can achieve.
In addition to using the latest silicon escapement technology, the rest of the watch retains the traditional simplicity of Breguet’s classic series. The case is made of 18K yellow or white gold, and the silver-plated K gold dial is carved by hand. The pattern of round barley grains and the staggered half-moon shape reveals the special identity of this watch. The classic blue steel Breguet hand slides gently over the Roman numerals and the calendar window at 6 o’clock. The movement is decorated with a traditional Geneva stripe, engraved with an independent number and a Breguet logo. The K gold automatic torch is hand-engraved, the power reserve is 38 hours, and the balance wheel is equipped with 4 K gold screws, which can be adjusted in 5 positions. . Its silicon escapement fork, escapement wheel and balance spring can be seen at a glance through the transparent case back.
In 2007, Breguet continued to explore in the field of silicon escapement, and launched the Tradition series 7047 watch that shocked the watch industry at that time. 7047 was not only the first ultra-complex watch in the series, but also the world’s first An ultra-complex watch using silicon escapement, its unique design fully meets the series’ rich imagination characteristics. This watch not only uses the silicon Breguet upper winding spring, but also is equipped with a tourbillon and an extremely complicated sesame chain transmission system.
In terms of silicon escapement, the 7047 has a new silicon Breguet winding spring, coupled with a patented titanium alloy balance wheel and a large tourbillon frame as early as 2004, making it the world’s first to use silicon Tourbillon watch with hairspring. Corresponding to the tourbillon is its sesame chain tower gear transmission system with more than 600 parts. The tower gear transmission system at 10 o’clock enhances the stability of the transmission rate and ensures that no matter the degree of winding of the mainspring , The movement can always maintain a stable connection rate (usually the strength of the mainspring of a mechanical watch will vary depending on the degree of winding). The conical tower gear contains a differential gear, which can continuously transmit power to the movement. When the mainspring is fully wound, its traction is the highest. The sesame chain connecting the barrel and the tower gear is wrapped around the tower gear. Narrow section. In contrast, when the mainspring part is loose and its strength becomes weak, the sesame chain is wound around the widest part of the tower gear. Due to the use of a crown gear with a leading edge tooth connection, the winding system has been further improved and the sensitivity has been significantly improved. Its dual barrels have a power reserve of 50 hours.
In terms of appearance, the side of the 18K gold case with a diameter of 41 mm is decorated with coins, retaining the traditional characteristics of Breguet. The asymmetrical design of the dial at 7:30 adds a full originality to the watch. The traditional Roman numerals and classic Breguet pointers are reminiscent of the brand founder. The center of the dial is decorated with intricate ‘Clou-de-Paris’ studded patterns, showing Breguet’s extraordinary subtle craftsmanship and skills.
In 2010, Breguet added a new member to the 7047 family, launched the 7047 platinum model. After four years of successful use in various watch movements, it turned over a flat silicon balance spring produced by Breguet. After a satisfactory answer, Breguet launched a silicon hairspring with the famous Breguet end curve. In fact, adding curves to silicon wafers is a major breakthrough in watchmaking. Under normal circumstances, the hairspring is cut from the flat sheet to show a uniform thin strip shape. Since the silicon material itself does not have the ductility of the metal, the coil cannot be bent. Therefore, in order to mold the curved tail end protruding in the spiral winding in the silicon material, the production process must be completely readjusted. In the end, Breguet’s technicians conquered all the technical challenges and developed it successfully, and assembled it on a platinum model of the 7047.
Unlike the gold model, the platinum version of the movement is a special bituminous color. In order to achieve this color, Breguet uses a precious metal alloy with a deeper tint than ruthenium in the platinum group elements, and uses a new and improved electroplating process. The most special thing is that the upper splint bridge of the tourbillon frame of this watch is made of titanium alloy, while the tourbillon frame is made of non-magnetic stainless steel, and the titanium balance wheel has four gold fine-tuning screws.
In 2010, in addition to the 7047 platinum watch equipped with a new silicon hairspring, another innovation was to increase the swing frequency of the newly launched Type XXII 3880 chronograph to an unprecedented 10 Hz in the watch industry. This watch relies on its ultra-high wobble frequency, which makes the movement have unparalleled adjustment capabilities. The chronograph second hand can complete a week of rotation in 30 seconds, and the starting function and reading accuracy are doubled. Of course, this is also due to the use of silicon technology in this technology, which makes the moving parts more lightweight, thereby avoiding the lubrication problems caused by high frequency.
We see that this watch has two large hands in addition to the hour and minute hands, but don’t think that this is a double chase. The hand at the bottom of the center is actually used to record the minute, moving one division every 30 seconds. The short red and white lines on the scale circle are used to record the minute scale, plus the red and white counting second hand scale, which is used to determine whether the chronograph counter is in the first circle (red area) or the second circle (white area) rotates for 30 seconds.
In addition, this computer has a flyback function, which can reset the accumulator to zero and restart it quickly with one operation. This can be seen from the zero reset button marked in red. In addition, the dial has a second time zone display window, accompanied by a calendar window. With the two-speed crown, you can adjust the central hour hand and reset the second time zone indication without affecting the minute hand. When the crown is in that position, the calendar changes with the time in the central main time zone. The 24-hour day and night indicator at 3 o’clock on this watch helps the wearer to know whether the area covered by the second time zone is day or night. The sub-dial at 9 o’clock shows the rotating second hand, which is also a 30-second turn. In terms of appearance, this watch is made of stainless steel with a diameter of 44 mm and its power reserve has reached 45 hours under such a high swing frequency. . As for how this watch reaches 10 Hz, the answer will be revealed in the text below.
In 2011, Breguet continued to increase its pace in the silicon field and began to gradually popularize this latest technology. If the launch of 5197 is still a bit of a stone’s throw, and want to show that this is a distinctive watch, Then the launch of 5177 indicates that the silicon escapement has become normalized, because you really can’t tell the difference between this watch and other classic Breguet watches from the front. The 5177 is equipped with a new 777Q automatic basic movement. Since Breguet regards it as a basic movement, it means that the performance of this movement is very stable, and it will be assembled in other watches of Breguet in the future. Paragraph.
In addition, Breguet also said that the movement has great development potential, and in the future, various functional modules will be added to evolve into movements of varying degrees of complexity. This movement combines many of Breguet’s cutting-edge technologies, including not only silicon escapement wheels, pallet forks, silicon balance springs, and ceramic oscillating weight bearings, but also Nivachoc shock absorbers newly designed for silicon balance springs. The barrel with DLC coating and DLC coating greatly enhances the comfort of power transmission. Although there is only one barrel, the power reserve has reached 55 hours. You must know that the 5197 is equipped with a 591A movement and has two barrels. Power is only 38 hours.
The 5177 has three materials of 18K red, yellow and white gold with a classic size of 38 mm. The extremely slender blue steel Breguet hands are refreshing, and the irregular trapezoidal calendar window at 3 o’clock is also just right. In addition, the gold-plated silver dial of this watch has Guilloché hand-engraved decoration and glazed fire enamel to choose from, especially the glazed fire enamel looks like a rich cream biscuit, which makes people want to take a bite.
In 2012, when the silicon escapement had just begun to spread, and everyone thought that the silicon escapement was the end of the development of escapement technology, Breguet once again challenged the limits of our brains, even using the magnetic force of the natural enemy of the watch industry. To drive the operation of the watch escapement, it can not be said that it is an extremely anti-sky idea. In fact, the first appearance of magnetic force was in the Type XXII 3800 chronograph, which is not difficult to explain why The wobble frequency can reach an astonishing 10 Hz, because the most effective way to increase the wobble frequency is to make the balance wheel rotate faster, and only by magnetic force can it be made faster. Wouldn’t have thought of it.